Cusco, South America - Things to Do in Cusco

Things to Do in Cusco

Cusco, South America - Complete Travel Guide

Cusco sits at 3,400 meters in the Peruvian Andes, and you feel it the moment you step off the plane. Lungs work harder. Your head goes light. The thin air carries woodsmoke and the faint sweetness of coca leaves from every doorway. The old Inca capital wears its layers openly: Spanish colonial churches built directly atop massive Inca foundations, terracotta roofs spilling down hillsides toward the Plaza de Armas, cobblestone alleys in San Blas where the smell of fresh empanadas drifts from family-run hornos. You'll hear Quechua spoken alongside Spanish, mostly in the markets, and cathedral bells echo off stone walls that have stood since the 1400s. The city tends to surprise visitors who expect a sleepy mountain town. Cusco hums with energy. Students fill cafes along Procuradores. Porters haul impossibly large bundles up steep lanes. Weavers from outlying communities lay out alpaca textiles on the Plaza San Francisco steps. By night, the lit-up balconies and bell towers give the center an almost theatrical glow, and the temperature drops sharply enough that you'll want a sweater even in July. Most travelers treat Cusco as a launchpad for Machu Picchu, which is fair enough. But the city itself deserves more than a layover. The acclimatization days you'll need (and you do need them, since altitude sickness is real here) turn out to be some of the best of any South America trip. Slow mornings with mate de coca. Afternoons wandering Inca walls. Evenings eating lomo saltado in a courtyard restaurant warmed by a fireplace. The slowness is the point.

Top Things to Do in Cusco

Sacsayhuamán Inca Fortress

A twenty-minute uphill walk from the Plaza de Armas brings you to these enormous zigzagging walls, built from limestone blocks so massive and precisely fitted that you cannot slip a credit card between them. The site sprawls across a long ridge with sweeping views back over Cusco's terracotta sea of roofs, and on clear afternoons the light turns the stones honey-gold. Arrive early in the day. You'll likely have wide stretches of it nearly to yourself.

Booking Tip: Skip the standalone ticket. Buy the Boleto Turístico (full or partial circuit) at the entrance. It covers Sacsayhuamán plus several other ruins and museums for far less than buying individually. Bring cash. Cards are unreliable here.

San Blas Artisan Quarter

This is the kind of neighborhood where the streets are too steep for cars and every other doorway opens into a workshop. Silversmiths hammer away. Weavers work backstrap looms. Painters render Andean Madonnas on canvas. You might find yourself drinking coca tea in a tiny plaza while a dog naps on warm cobblestones. The whitewashed San Blas church holds a pulpit some consider the finest piece of colonial woodcarving in the Americas.

Booking Tip: Aim for a weekday morning. That's when the artisans are at their craft. Saturday afternoons get crowded with tour groups, and the neighborhood loses some of its hush.
Bookable experience Cusco Private Night Tour Plaza de Armas San Blas and Viewpoints From $45
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Qorikancha and Santo Domingo

Once the most sacred temple in the Inca empire, its walls reportedly sheathed in gold sheets that the Spanish stripped within months of conquest. What remains is uncanny. The conquistadors built a Dominican monastery directly on top, leaving the lower Inca masonry intact, so you walk through colonial cloisters and suddenly find yourself facing impossibly tight-jointed stonework. The contrast tells the whole story of Cusco in a single building.

Booking Tip: One catch worth flagging. The Boleto Turístico does NOT cover Qorikancha, which requires a separate entry ticket, and this trips up a lot of first-time visitors. Allow about ninety minutes inside.

San Pedro Market

Six blocks west of the Plaza de Armas, this is where Cusco does its real shopping. Mountains of potatoes in colors you didn't know existed (purple, blue, yellow, near-black), stalls of fresh cheeses wrapped in cloth, the warm yeasty smell of bread carts, butchers calling out cuts, and juice stalls along the back wall where local women blend whatever fruit is in season for next to nothing. Try the caldo de gallina from the food counters if you've been struggling with altitude. The broth helps.

Booking Tip: Bring small bills. The 10 and 20 soles notes work best, since vendors rarely have change for larger ones. Go before 11am for the freshest produce and liveliest scene.
Bookable experience Cusco Cooking Classes and San Pedro Market Tour From $65
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Sacred Valley Day Trip

The Urubamba Valley develops below Cusco in a long ribbon of green farmland, salt pans, and ruined Inca citadels at Pisac, Ollantaytambo, and Chinchero. The drive alone is reason enough. You'll descend nearly a thousand meters, which helps with acclimatization, and the terraced hillsides at Moray (concentric agricultural rings sunk into the earth) look like nothing else on the continent. Locals swear by stopping in Maras for the salt mines. They're right.

Booking Tip: Heading to Machu Picchu next? Spend the night in Ollantaytambo rather than returning to Cusco. The train journey is shorter from there, and the village itself is unexpectedly charming after dark.
Bookable experience Sacred Valley Tour in Cusco From $47
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Getting There

Most travelers fly into Alejandro Velasco Astete International Airport (CUZ), a fifteen-minute taxi ride from the historic center, with direct connections from Lima (about 1.5 hours), La Paz, and seasonal routes from Bogotá. Midweek flights are cheaper. Arrivals are almost always morning. Afternoon winds make landings at Cusco's altitude tricky, so airlines schedule conservatively. The overland alternative is the bus from Lima (roughly 21 hours via Cruz del Sur or Oltursa, both reasonably comfortable), or the more scenic route up from Puno and Lake Titicaca, which takes about 7 hours. Train service from Puno via PeruRail's Andean Explorer is a splurge option but quite beautiful, climbing across high-altitude plains where vicuñas graze.

Getting Around

The historic center is compact enough to walk almost everywhere. Take it slow anyway. You'll be acclimatizing, and those cobblestone hills hit hard on day one. Taxis are cheap and plentiful. Agree on the fare before getting in, since meters aren't standard (a ride within central Cusco is budget-friendly, usually a flat rate you can negotiate). For trips out to Sacsayhuamán or the airport, official taxis from designated stands are safer than flagging one on the street. Combis (shared minibuses) run to outlying neighborhoods and the Sacred Valley for very little money, though they're crowded and need some Spanish to navigate. Skip the rental car. The streets are narrow, parking is impossible, and altitude saps engine performance.

Where to Stay

Plaza de Armas area. Central and walkable to everything. But louder at night with restaurant noise and the occasional parade.

San Blas. Bohemian quarter on the hillside, gorgeous views, lots of boutique guesthouses. The steep climb home after dinner is real.

Plaza San Francisco. Quieter than the main plaza, still very central. Mix of mid-range hotels and apartments.

Avenida El Sol. Modern strip with banks, larger hotels, and easy taxi access. Less atmosphere but practical.

Santa Ana neighborhood. Close to San Pedro Market, more local feel, family-run hostales at the cheaper end.

Wanchaq. Residential area south of center, where Cuscans themselves live. Budget-friendly long-stay rentals if you're around for weeks.

Food & Dining

Cusco's food scene punches well above what you'd expect from a city this size. Part of the reason: Lima chefs. Many have opened second locations here. For Andean-Novo fine dining, Cicciolina on Calle Triunfo and Chicha por Gastón Acurio on Plaza Regocijo are the splurge picks. Reservations essential. Mid-range, the courtyards around San Blas feel atmospheric and stay reasonable; Pacha Papa is the reliable classic for cuy and alpaca tenderloin. For lomo saltado done right, Morena Peruvian Kitchen near Plaza de Armas does it as well as anywhere. Cheap eats cluster around San Pedro Market and along Procuradores, where set-menu lunches (entrada, segundo, drink) cost less than a coffee back home. Look for places packed with locals at 1pm. Don't leave without trying chicha morada (the purple-corn drink), choclo with fresh cheese from a street vendor, and a proper Pisco Sour at Museo del Pisco on Santa Catalina Ancha.

When to Visit

May through September is the dry season and the obvious choice: blue skies, crisp mornings, cold nights that drop near freezing. June and July are peak. Clear weather, full hotels, busy Inca Trail bookings (reserve six months out), and Inti Raymi crowds late June. April and October are the sweet spots in my view: shoulder months with mostly dry weather, thinner crowds, and prices that drop noticeably. November through March is rainy season. Afternoon downpours are common, the Inca Trail closes entirely in February, and Sacred Valley roads can wash out. The landscape is at its greenest then, and the city is quiet. Altitude doesn't care. The month doesn't matter. Plan two full days of light activity on arrival, regardless of season.

Insider Tips

Coca tea (mate de coca) is offered everywhere on arrival and it does help with altitude. Drink it freely. Just skip strenuous activity the first 36 hours, regardless of how good you feel after lunch.
ATMs in the Plaza de Armas often run out on Sunday evenings. Pull cash on Friday or Saturday. Stick to BCP or Interbank machines, which have lower foreign-card fees.
The free walking tours that start near the cathedral are legitimately good. Tip-based, around 3 hours. Better orientation than any paid bus tour, and the guides will steer you toward the better restaurants and away from the tourist traps along Procuradores.

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